Thanks very much for your very informative website, which I checked almost daily before our departure for Italy two weeks ago.
We were in Cinque Terre March 15 – 18 and since I myself had been very concerned about the condition of the trails in advance of our trip, I thought other readers might want some up-to-date news. We hiked the Corniglia – Vernazza section without much difficulty, although there were a few eroded spots and two places where workers are rebuilding areas that had been lost to landslides. I heard from other tourists that the Monterosso – Vernazza section was open, but did not get the opportunity to try it.
The Corniglia – Manarola section was closed and gated, but we hiked it anyway, having read that’s what you do there. It was several hours after a very heavy rain, and portions of the trail directly over the ocean had slid into the sea many meters below, some as a result of landslides from above. One got the very distinct impression that similar events could occur at any moment, and although we encountered none ourselves, I though a lot about it afterward. It’s very difficult to figure out how that particular trail can be quickly (or ever) repaired, since, unlike the Corniglia-Vernazza trail, it hugs a steep cliff directly above the water.
The Via dell’Amore remains, as you noted, closed. Staying in Corniglia was lovely and I would heartily recommend the Ristorante da Cecio, where we both slept and ate for three nights. I’ve been trying to figure out what made Elia’s pesto the best I have ever tasted anywhere, and have yet to try this out, but I suspect she added a little bit (or maybe more) of cream to the sauce.
Buon viaggio to those of you who are lucky enough to be looking forward rather than back to a visit, although the summertime crowds must be overwhelming and really change the character of the place.