My wife and I have just returned from Italy, and spent three days in the Cinque Terre. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Booking accommodation through the web can be risky, but we were lucky. I can recommend the apartments run by “Affitta camere Vesigna Edi” in Riomaggiore. The apartments were clean, comfortable, had character, and very reasonably priced.
We thoroughly enjoyed the hiking. As the Via dell’amore was closed, we climbed out of Riomaggiore, traveled along the road for a small bit, then reconnected with the trail that led to Volastra. From Volastra, we traversed across the terraces, then descended into Corniglia. This part of the trail was by far the most spectacular in this part of the coastline. The next day, we walked from Riomaggiore to Portovenere. This trail was just as enjoyable, but different from the one on the previous day. Whereas the trail from Riomaggiore to Monterosso was mostly agricultural, or invaded by woody weeds, the trail to Portovenere was a lot more natural. I particularly enjoyed the descent into Portovenere, as one got spectacular views of the castle and Church of San Pietro.